Best pipe for running water supply from storage tank to home

Knowing your facts and standing your ground on how to run a domestic plumbing system is a good fit for any individual or client; it keeps your handy man aware that you recognize certain traits and you can criticize the work if it’s not done adequately or to your particular taste. Recognizing the best pipes for certain plumbing operations within your home and its external environment is part of what is being referred to here; one of it being able to determine the best pipe you can utilize to run water from your storage tank to your home as supply.

Storage tanks exist in variety especially if you’re dealing with water storage, you might want to go through our written article to have a clearer insight of what types of those are also best for your requirements

However, looking into the ranges of pipe materials available to tank materials, only a few are suitable to be utilized as a supply pipe to our domestic homes but the best by far is the PP-R pipe. The PP-R pipes and fittings are the most reliable in plumbing and water supply operations due to its features and fusion welding. It is suitable for portable water and possesses a skin tight impervious system that can be used for both hot and cold water supply and of-course; they do have some added perks to be mentioned later in this article.

A close alternative to the PP-R pipes are the CPVC pipes, they come in as close to second favorites as they are resistant to degradation and can handle higher temperatures from contained liquid but, let’s face it, they are not as sealed tight plus they are less flexible and tend to suit hot water distribution best, making it much less versatile as the PP-R pipes can be.

Other alternatives do exist and can be utilized if your notion is to have something distinct, beyond the normal or just plain different; the list of other usable pipe materials include;

  • PVC pipes
  • Steel pipes (preferably stainless steel)

 

EXPOSING THE SUPPLY LINE OR PROTECTING SUPPLY LINE; WHICH IS BEST?

Exposed supply line; An exposed supply line is a common choice for most handymen and home owners because it reduces the cost of installation and allows for easy access when maintenance of pipeline is required; exposure however causes detriments because you allow your pipes to be open to damage by external forces including degradation by ultra-violet rays from the sun. As far as negative concerns go, those are the only things you really need to worry about.

Hence, if you’re choosing to have your pipeline exposed, understand that may get damaged easily and extreme climates will tamper with the pipe’s material reducing its lifespan.

Protected supply line; having your supply pipes covered or channeled to a remotely save area is advisable but most people run the risk of passing them through tight spaces that requires that you do serious work once you’re trying to access them for maintenance. Protecting your supply line shields them to detriments from external factors but reduces the access to them.

 

To answer the question of which is best; it’s a very simple line of answer; creating a balance in between is the right way to go. Protecting your supply pipes mildly but creating a shield that can easily be displaced when you choose to access them is ideal. The shield protects them when you don’t really need access to the pipes but they can be easily opened and pipes can be accessed when there is a need for maintenance of any sorts. An example of such shields are concrete boards or wind breakers.

 

WHAT ARE THE LENGTHS, THICKNESS AND SIZE OF PIPES I NEED FOR STORAGE TANK SUPPLY TO HOUSE?

Length; Standard lengths of pipes appear to be premade from the manufacturing industry; so with regards to the length needed, simply measure the distance from the discharge outlet of storage tank to the inlet leading to house to know the total length of pipe needed and divide by standard length of manufactured pipe to get the numerical value of how many pieces will be required. For instance; PVC pipes are typically 6 meters per standard piece, and you’ve measured a distance of 40 meters from tank to inlet. Divide 40 by 6 to arrive at a value of 6.6

Therefore, approximately 7 pieces (length) of pipe is needed to achieve job.

length of pipes

 

Internal diameter; the internal diameter of a pipe is typically the main feature that most people pay attention to with regards to the pipe; simply because it’s the size that determines the flow rate and quantity of water to be conveyed. Choosing your internal diameter solely depends on the amount of people and appliances to be catered for, however in ideal practices, 2 inches or 63 mm pipe is the maximum size used as the main supply line from the tank. It can be modified to be bigger and it can obviously be reduced to be smaller.

Hence there’s no harm in trying out higher sizes anyway. The more the merrier, but you’d need a strong pipe with ideal thickness when dealing with large diameters. This brings us to the last pipe size to the considered.

internal diameter

 

Thickness; thickness of the pipes is a common one people ignore; some because they deem it unworthy of attention whilst some just avoid them since they tend to be more expensive. In the construction field we refer to them as grades and they do have vital roles to play especially when dealing with large diameter pipes. Thickness restricts pipes of large diameter from excessive sagging, failure by impact or compression.

The thickness prevents undue flexibility, serves to extend lifespan of pipe and provides added functions of being a protective shell against external factors i.e. chemicals, climate, mechanical impacts etc.

thickness

 

wPROS AND CONS OF EACH STORAGE TANK SUPPLY PIPES (PP-R, CPVC, PVC, STEEL PIPES)

PP-R PIPES;

PROS;

  • They utilize heat fusion to combine pipes and fittings; involving no chemical applications
  • It ensues maximum strengths at these joints making it 100% leak proof after fusion
  • They are less flammable, and non-toxic during combustion i.e. if it gets burnt by fire
  • It is cost effective; they may be a little costly but they are worth every penny
  • More resistant to chemicals when compared to CPVCs and PVCs
  • More resilient to pressured fluids; in situations where pressure/ booster pumps are required to increase water pressure, they do an excellent job resisting leakage over a long duration.
  • They are repellent towards bacteria growth; despite water disinfection, bacteria can exist in drinking water and possibly grow within the internal walls of the pipe. The smoothness of the wall surface and lack of plasticizers prevent the bacterial growth.
  • Requires little maintenance.

CONS;

  • They are less malleable; when compared to the likes of PVC pipes, PP-R pipes are very less flexible and are harder to manipulate therefore expert professionalism is required when handling them because they don’t deform or reshape easily.
  • It can be lot more expensive when compared to other plastic pipes; the cost of purchase and installation may likely strain you as a buyer but there are chances you’d get a good deal. The high cost comes with the complexity of the material itself and higher technical requirements needed for the installation.

CPVC PIPES;

PROS;

  • Installation process can be easy and efficient; pipes and fittings are joined with a simple solvent / adhesive
  • Similar to PP-R pipes, they also require little maintenance
  • It is ideal for portable water
  • They also possess smooth internal walls that resists foulings or growth by bacteria
  • If well maintain, they have an exemplary degree of mechanical strength that can last for 50 years of pressure bearing capabilities.

CONS;

  • Has substantial rigidity; CPVC pipes has a poor flexibility ratio increasing the possibility of fracture/leakage under excessive movement, deflection of pipe or impact from external impacts
  • Exposure to extreme climates or temperatures affect the pipe formings negatively, allowing it gradually degrade and potentially infect contained water over a period of time
  • They are typically expensive as they supposedly costs almost twice the amount of a PVC pipe of similar sizes

PVC PIPES;

PROS;

  • They are easy to assemble; PVC pipes are assembled with the use of adhesives, fittings and an easy to-do mode of operation, they are also malleable with the application of heat shaping them in certain shapes and directions that can be utilized by plumber
  • They are a quite cheap to purchase and insinuates low cost of installation
  • PVC pipes are safe and non-toxic if utilized properly; debates are protruding questioning the portability of PVC pipes (mainly plastic pipes) and its effect to drinking water, although they do extrude particles from the plastic material into water, they can be easily deflected with the use of coatings

CONS;

  • PVC pipes can be easily damaged by impact as they offer the lowest grades of plastic pipes; most likely for water supply.
  • Heavily likely to get damaged when exposed to extreme climates; which professes that their best place of usage should be within the enclosed area of structure
  • They require the use of a lot of fittings; involving chemical adhesives as cementing solvents. This may have adverse effects on contained water.

STAINLESS STEEL PIPES;

PROS;

  • Substantial resistance to damage; this is predominantly due to the strength of the stainless steel itself. It’s hard to damage and is very resilient to mechanical impact.
  • Stainless steel tanks are relatively immune to extreme climatic change and can resist extreme cold and heat properly.
  • They are quite hygienic to say the least; stainless steels possess a non-porous chromium embedded surface to restrict the growth of rust and bacteria.
  • Attractive outlook with regards to the aesthetic contribution it offers

CONS;

  • Expensive; the cost of material plus the cost of installation are seemingly over the top, except if you’re willing to spend regardless. High end professionals are usually required to have them fixed; that usually costs a lot, as initial costs.
  • Metal is quite rigid, and making for low flexibility.